The Fur-Free Future of Luxury Fashion

Fur and fashion have a complicated relationship and sparked much debate between designers and animal rights activists who have clashed in memorable protests on the runway. Who could forget the Peta campaigns of the ‘90s when Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington declared they would “rather go naked than wear fur”. For some fashion houses, fur is a material at the core of their brand heritage and for many fur artisans, the fur trade is a craft immersed in rich tradition. However, in an eco-conscious society, more fashion brands are recognizing the need for sustainable action and are choosing to discard their unethical practices for planet preservation. This begs the question, is fashion finally going fur-free and what will replace it in the coming fashion weeks?

Designers like Calvin Klein and Stella McCartney have paved the way for other brands to change their practices by successfully building their companies on the basis of being fur-free, and now, the anti-fur movement is sparking a revolution with more luxury brands choosing to ban this material. Vivienne Westwood, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Prada, Versace, Armani and Burberry have stripped fur from their collections. The early 2000s also saw Michael Kors, Tom Ford and Gucci phase out fur even though one of Gucci’s most popular shoes of all time was the fur-lined loafer. In the last week, Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler have joined the fur ban alongside Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta and more planning on banning fur from their Fall/Winter 2022 collections. Going fur-free seems to be the hottest trend right now and marks a meaningful shift in the luxury market with fashion leaders making vital commitments to animal rights by rethinking their unethical practices. Fendi, Céline, Louis Vuitton, Hermés, Givenchy and Dior are yet to commit to going completely fur-free; however, with more fashion conglomerates responding to the shift in consumer ethics, it’s only a matter of time before all luxury fashion houses phase out fur. 

“Stopping the use of fur is another step forward in our commitment to animal welfare and is in line with our commitment to sustainability.” - Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering’s Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer, reported by Vogue

It is not only the luxury fashion market that is eliminating fur, ELLE magazine has announced that they will no longer promote fur in any of its 45 international publications including in editorial content or advertisements. Government action is also promoting the anti-fur campaign with Israel, California, the Netherlands and Denmark deciding to cull and, in some cases, ban fur farming. The United Kingdom is also re-evaluating their fur trade.

The fashion industry finally seems to be taking steps towards a more sustainable future; however, there are disputing attitudes to the global anti-fur campaign. The fur trade is an industry that runs deep in culture and tradition, and the rejection of the craft leaves many fur houses and artisans concerned with going permanently out of business. Some brands argue they source the luxury material from ethical fur farms that prioritize the well-being of their animals. “For many of the artisans I work with across Africa, farming and working with animals is a way of life. We are extremely proud to work with family-owned farms who raise animals and diligently work to make sure that all parts of the animal can be celebrated and used by the community.” Explained Aurora James, producer of Olga Djanguirov’s fur collections in Africa. 

The fur-free progression in the fashion industry is a harsh transition for many traders and craftsmen in this business, and ethical fur farms that promote sustainability and the welfare of their animals do exist. Unfortunately, many brands fail to source from ethical suppliers resulting in animal cruelty and the environmental consequences we have come to associate with the fur trade. For many fur factories, its production is an intensely toxic and energy-consumptive process. The toxic chemicals used in the bleaching and dying, and the animal waste runoff from fur factories produces considerable amounts of pollution to waterways and the local ecosystem. Fur farms also have a severe ecological footprint leading to the degradation of land and rural life; the Animal Protection Institute estimates that “it takes about 3 tonnes of feed to produce a single mink coat, and a tonne of feed (2,200 pounds) to produce one fox fur coat”.

The fur debate still continues as to whether it should hold a place in the fashion industry; however, luxury fashion companies want to appear more environmentally conscious to a new generation of clients that care about where their clothes come from. Whilst there are positive results from the fur ban, companies need to also consider the faux-fur alternatives they are using. Plastic fur dupes made of microfibers and polymers cause just as much destruction to the ecosystem as the pollutive fur factories. Brands need to be considering tried and tested eco-friendly fur alternatives that won’t compromise the planet for the sake of style, including the bio-based KOBA fur derived from vegetable crops rather than petroleum oil. 

With the fashion industry turning to innovative alternatives to fur, it will be interesting to see how brands are tackling sustainability with their future runway looks and carving out their fur-free futures.

Cover Image: Unsplash / Gerardo Marrufo